Last chance to visit the (for now) last exhibition at MoMu: She walks in beauty - Olivier Theyskens
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| © a fashion girl |
'She walks in beauty' is the name of a poem by Lord Byron, but also of the exibition about Olivier Theyskens in the Antwerp fashion museum MoMu. Until Sunday April 15th you can admire his unique designs, which sometimes are a little bit dark, but are always displaying a strong aesthetic. The exhibition guides you through twenty years of work by the young - he is only 41 - designer. Craftsmanship and romanticism are two key words that are consistent throughout those two decades. Now that I am writing this blogpost - granted, far too late - I really want to plan a last minute (second) visit to the exhibition myself to see all that beauty again.
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| a dark and fragile beauty and youthfulness The dress on the right is from Madonna's collection (for her song Frozen). © a fashion girl |
At a young age Olivier Theyskens was certain of what he wanted to be. When he was only six years old, he already proclaimed he wanted to be a couturier. Years later he started studying at the famous fashion academy La Cambre. But he already left the school after a year and half to launch his first collection. Afterwards he worked for famous fashion houses such as Rochas and Nina Ricci and (Theyskens') Theory. Recently, in 2016, he relaunched his own label that is now infused with twenty years of fashion experience.
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| from Olivier Theyskens' early years © a fashion girl |
The exhibition doesn't only show a chronological overview of Theyskens' creations but also his beautiful sketches. For his creations the designer is inspired by many things: old fabrics from his grandmother's attic, works of art by surrealist artist Meredith Oppenheim, but also by the painter Monet, history, the sea, Japan (before he had ever been there) or even a perfume bottle for his first Rochas collection...
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| from Olivier Theyskens' early years © a fashion girl |
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| from Olivier Theyskens' early years © a fashion girl |
Also the transience of everything comes back in his work, for example portrayed by the dead bird on a pair of shoes. But above all Theyskens is inspired by youth and beauty. His first collections show a dark Victorian inspired (but never literally) and fragile beauty.
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| © a fashion girl |
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| © a fashion girl |
When working for Rochas his designs are more elegant and less oriented toward youth. But when he moves on to Nina Ricci youthfulness is omnipresent again. Something that didn't really work for the older clientele of the French fashion house. Nevertheless, a lot of young rich American women are charmed by his collections for Nina Ricci, amongst them the daughter of Anna Wintour. When Theyskens had to leave at Ricci, the editor in chief of Vogue reacted shocked.
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| for Rochas © a fashion girl |
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| for Rochas © a fashion girl |
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| for Rochas The dresses on the left are inspired by Monet's paintings. © a fashion girl |
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| for Nina Ricci © a fashion girl |
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| for Nina Ricci © a fashion girl |
So maybe it's only logical that he went to work for an American label next: Theory. There he showed that his romantic creative vision could be translated to a more simple and commercial design. After more than three years, Theyskens left Theory in 2014.
No longer restricted, Olivier Theyskens, could create his own world again. When he has no limitations his imagination has no boundaries. The impressive wedding gown for Nellie Diamond, a New York business woman, shows that. In 2016 he relaunched his own line. It contains several characteristic elements: hook-and-eye closures, trains, bodices, attention to (manipulated) fabrics...and shows the designer's true self.
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| from Theyskens' recent collection - incredible attention to fabric and detail © a fashion girl |
8 things you (probably) didn't know
- The designer also made his mark on the scenography of the exibition. The mannequins wear wigs - which never happened before in the history of MoMu.
- Olivier Theyskens stays true to his own vision.When Madonna asked to wear one of his creations - the yellow dress in the picture - he only agreed to do so if she would dye her hair black. And the Queen of Pop obliged.
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| the dress Madonna wore in 1998 © a fashion girl |
- Unfortunately the yellow dress that Madonna wore in 1998 for the VH 1 Fashion Awards is no longer in the exhibition but I can tell you a fun fact about it. The dress (so also Madonna's waist in 1998) was so tiny that it didnt' fit on the mannequin. It had to be left open in the back.
- The designer has an eye for detail. When he presented a collection inspired by the sea, the runway was covered in mussel shells.
- Olivier Theyskens is very modest and pays attention to the people he works with. He still knows which model wore which dress.
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| © a fashion girl |
- The sketches of the designer always show movement.
- For those who are looking for fashion advice. Olivier Theyskens likes to keep the last button of jackets open. He just thinks that is more elegant
- After this exhibition the fashion museum is going to be closed for some time for renovations. The floors that are scrubbed down to reveal glimpses of older exhibitions are a referance to that.
For all practical information about the exhibition: www.momu.be.
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